Florence, Oct 18-19, 2012

     Although I wasn't really thrilled with the city at first, Florence was lovely. We had modest but nice hotel that served us mostly just bread for breakfast (like the one in Assisi) with a key system like that of the hotel in Siena.

     Thursday afternoon, after settling in, I went inside San Lorenzo. The marketplace by San Lorenzo was CRAZY. There is just SO much stuff to look at! Florentine stationery, leather gloves, leather jackets, leather EVERYTHING, pretty scarves. . . All kinds of cool stuff. At about 3, we all met on the steps of the Duomo to begin our group activities. Here's the duomo:

 



I love how these churches have Madonna and Child statues front and center
 outside. So awesome. I especially LOVE the ones at Notre Dame. More on that amazing church later. ;)
 

     Kind of looks like the Duomo in Siena and the Duomo in Orvieto, I know, (all three have this thing for alternating white and green marble, which I've not seen anywhere else) but it IS different. And lovely. :)  My friend Rachel described them as looking like "spun sugar."

     Oh, and let's not forget the Baptistry, which was a very popular subject for photography indeed. I got my picture in front of it on Friday, after waiting in line behind a number of Asian women. (I've noticed that about Asian tourists: it's always the husbands taking pictures of thier wives in front of everything, and several pictures with the same background, in different poses. Some of the most amusing poses were the ones I've seen at the Mouth of Truth. It's cute, in a funny sort of way.)

 

 



     The first of these group activities was gelato at Perche No! This place had the best lemon gelato imaginable. It was refreshing, not super strong, not pucker-inducing. It was sooooo good...  (Speaking of gelato, the best place in Rome to get gelato is Old Bridge, across from the Vatican walls and between the Vatican Museums entrance and the gate at St. Ann's. It's good gelato, you get more for your money than you do at other places, and the service is always both amusing and friendly. Well, it is if you're a young girl.) After gelato, we had a very long walk to San Miniato. On the way there, we crossed the river via Ponte Vecchio. Ponte Vecchio is an age-old bridge with buildings on it; not just any buildings, but stores selling expensive gold jewelry.

 

 

     When we finally got to San Miniato, we went to Mass and saw an absolutely breathtaking view of the city at twilight.


 

 

     Friday, we went to the Uffizi Gallery. While waiting for our tickets, we saw a creepy statue-guy and listened to a really good classical guitar player.

One of the songs he played was "Con Te Partiro"; excellent rendition

     At the Uffizi, we saw a good deal of art, including some paintings that I had seen in sundry art books, and some GORGEOUS illuminated manuscripts. One of them was Dante's Inferno. How did I know this? I knew from the picture. :D It felt very awesome to be able to actually remember part of the the Divine Comedy, AND to be able to identify a centuries-old book. :)

     Upon leaving the said gallery, Andrew and I happened upon some equally important manuscripts at one of the street vendors' carts.

 

 

    And there were random other buildings in the street that I found cool.

The Lindt store.... Ohhhhhh..... The best chocolate ice cream I've ever had, and a whole store
 where you can buy pounds of Swiss chocolate. Needless to say, I didn't want to leave.

Love this kind of detail. It's strangely gothic... The Italians weren't big on Gothic.





 

Flashback, Romesickness, and Random Stuff

 

     One of the things I got for Christmas this year was an iTunes giftcard. (Did I get the capitalization right? I can't tell with all these i-things. It's the new e. People just like to purposefully break the rules of spelling and capitalization so-- okay, fine. I'll shut up. Pardon the English major.) The last two Christmases, I got pretty much the same thing: a number of songs which we burned to a disk. The last two discs were named "Epic Conventions" and "Song of the Spoudaios," after things I had learned about in school during the months before Christmas that year.

     This year, I had to name it after something in Rome. During a short fit of brainstorming, I thought of the dear, crowded Roman Metro, and was ECSTATIC to find this on YouTube:

     There are more weird people out there who find it funny!!! "... Destro?" Oh, the Metro. There are weird things on the Metro. Like men with noserings; feminine noserings, like the kind Indian women wear. What's always lovely are those times when it's so packed, that you're literally PUSHED into the Metro by the people behind you, and you end up standing on the thing with a couple strangers against you. Those are the times when you most need your sense of humor. And you're hand by your money. The bus, too. Ah, those few times when five people get OFF the bus to let a sixth person off, and then the first five get back on again. Metro does that, too. And let's not forget Rubicchio, either. Our good, time-traveling buddy.

 

http://www.rubicchio.it/

 

     Oh, Rome. The buildings, the churches, the cappuccini, the cornetti, the nutella-filled pastries, the kebabs... In case I've not explained, a kebab is NOT a shish-kabob. A kebab is mystery meat (okay, so it's lamb, but it looks suspicious at first glance) drizzled with ranch-yogurt sauce and wrapped in tortilla alongside french fries and cole slaw. WHY is that not only edible, but good? It shouldn't be, but it's soooo good. Man, I really want one, now. The meat is in a huge round... block, or something, turning on a vertical spit, and they shave it off with a device that looks like a sander or a staple-gun.

     And speaking of food, I have to go get some. Signing off for now!

The Rest of the Last Free Weekend

     Here I shall tell to ye the rest of my doings this past weekend. (Monday was a part of this weekend, by the way.)

     Saturday, my roommate and I went to Largo Argentina. Largo Argentina is a small group of ruins between Castel Sant'Angelo and the Pantheon where a lot of stray cats live. No, I'm not making this up. See for yourself:

 

 

 

 

     That afternoon, I went to Santa Maria in Trastevere, a church with some very cool gold-background mosaics.

 

Apse (dome behind the altar)

 

Facade of the church

     From thence I headed to San Pietro in Montorio, which is in the same part of Rome. However, I could not get into the church itself, which was annoying, because I have to learn about that church in order to complete some of my homework. At least I did get a very cool view from the hill it was on. I also found the only piece of funny graffiti I've ever seen. I think it's been here for a while, because I'm pretty sure I've seen someone else's picture of it.

     Sunday I rose later than I wanted to, heard there was a thunderstorm, and justified my going back to bed by telling myself that I did not want to walk to St. Peter's in the middle of a thunderstorm because that would be imprudent. Thus Sunday turned into a very lazy day indeed, and I did not go to Mass until 5:30 pm. I went for the first time to the church that is just down the block from our hotel, Santa Maria delle Gratzie. Italians are very unorganized and disunified. At almost any given point in Mass, there was one person standing, one person sitting, and sometimes one person kneeling. They can't make up their minds as a whole! I am not rebuking for the elderly people sitting while other people were standing. I am against perfectly healthy looking people under 60 sitting when they should be standing or kneeling, standing when they should be sitting or kneeling. The hymns had terrible melodies. They were strange, did not follow normal song procedure, and when the cantor sung them, it didn't even sound like normal Italian. It was unclear singing that echoed at lot. Bottom line: I am very glad that I decided almost immediately that St. Peter's was to be my parish, and not the church down the street. Yes, you have to get up earlier, walk farther, and wait in line to get into church, but it's so worth it.

     Sunday night, I ended up "circumnavigating" Vatican City without fully intending to. I was just walking around with some of the Rome group and chatting, and then it was like, "Let's go this way, I've never been this way. Ah, sure. Why not?" Then we saw that we were already at the back of St. Peter's, so we HAD to keep going all the way around so we could say that we walked around a country. They say it's a two mile walk. It took about an hour to an hour and a half. Didn't really keep track of the time.

     Monday morning, I had planned only to go to a “normal” Mass at St. Peter’s and then talk to Fr. Bergida (the priest who led us on Pilgrimage Week at the beginning of the semester and whom we see at least once a week). What actually happened was quite different, but really cool: We got in line to see if we could catch the Ukrainian Catholic Mass which was being celebrated for the Feast of St. Josephat, who is buried in St. Peter’s. St. Josephat was martyred sometime between 1500 and 1700 for trying to bring the Eastern Orthodox church back to the Pope. “He was called the ‘Thief of Souls,’ he was so successful,” said Fr. While in line, we met these Americans who wanted their picture taken with Fr. (not sure why, I mean, they were Catholics, so it’s not like they never see priests, but anyway).

     We only made the end… less than half of Mass. We got there sometime during the Liturgy of the Eucharist. This was the first non-Latin Rite Mass I’ve ever been to, so that was really exciting. I’ve been wanting to go to a Byzantine Rite Mass (not the same as Ukrainian Rite, but close, I’m sure) for a long, long time. The Mass was either in Greek or Ukrainian; I couldn’t tell. I want to say it was in both languages. It was celebrated by—unless we are gravely mistaken—the Metropolitan of the Rite, the bishop in the black and white vestment with the crown.

Picture from the Papal Mass in early October

 

     There was a lot of singing during Mass, both chanting and polyphony. The choir was a good choir, though small; I only wish I could have understood what they were singing. Receiving Communion was a very different experience. The Eastern Rites use leavened bread, not wafers, and one always receives Communion under both species, the Body and the Blood—at the same time. I couldn’t see whether the wine and water were poured into a ciborium, or the bread was put into a chalice; both species were in a cup-like vessel, and you were given Communion with a shallow spoon. No, you did NOT close your mouth on the spoon. You also didn’t say anything before you received, unlike the Latin Rite, where the priest says “The Body/Blood of Christ,” and we say “Amen.” Speaking of which, they pronounce it “Ameen.”  I learned that they really do bow and bless themselves a lot during Mass. I remember reading the rubric (right word??) for the Byzantine Liturgy at some point in high school, and I noticed a lot of symbols that indicated that the Sign of the Cross was to be made. I thought, “Man, that’s a lot of times. I doubt they really do it every time it says to.” Well, they do. They also bow when they do it, and they make it differently than we do. They touch their shoulders in the opposite order of the Latin Rite.
     After Mass, prayer in front of St. Josephat's tomb, and the chat with Fr., I had coffee at a new place which Fr. recommended. It was on the expensive side, though. That's one of the great things about All Brothers': they are the only coffee place that close to the Vatican that doesn't jack its prices way up. Most of the other places near the Vatican do.
     Last night was even MORE excitement: I got to hear the Westminster Cathedral and Pontifical Sistine Choirs live at St. Mary Major, free. It was part of a Vatican-sponsored festival. They were truly amazing. I was so happy to see all the little boys being normal little boys: talking nervously among themselves, squirming... I have disliked boys' choirs, but the voices last night were angelic, particularly this one boy who hit a very high note, held it, and was clear the entire time. That was during "Christus Vincit," arranged by James MacMillan, who is actually a modern composer. I tried to put the video directly into the post, but it was taking way too long. The song is longer than a normal song on the radio or a Sunday hymn would be, but I encourage you to listen. It's quite unique.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqNVgHYZtIY 

Ceiling in St. Mary Major

Choirs :)

     So there we have my weekend! I got to do some things that I've been wanting to do for a while, and some things that I'd never thought about doing, but were amazing nonetheless.

San Giovanni e Fontana di Trevi

     Sitting in the Metro, the infamous sound was heard yet again: "Prossima fermata: Barberini, Fontana di Trevi. Uscita lado... destro?"

     That being said, I went to the Trevi Fountain today; but that was about the last thing I did.

     This being my last free weekend (second to last weekend, period) in Rome, I planned on sleeping very little and running about lots. Did that happen? Not really.

     I got up late, got coffee at All Brothers, bumped into an older American couple who confused me, was asked by the owners if I was from Boston, got a Corrieri della Sera paper for Daddy, and asked some Vatican workers for the Cupola hours.

     Came back to mine room, and left shortly thereafter for St. John Lateran, which was happily was on the red Metro line, not the blue line. Went to St. John Lateran and took pictures. I really was not terribly impressed with most of the church. It just seemed too... normal. The side chapels and the apse were lovely, however. The outside was cool as well, and it looked an awful lot like the facade of St. Peter's. It was nice to not have to wait in line to get in, like you do to get into St. Peter's and Notre Dame. However, the scarf salesmen were quite obnoxious outside the Lateran. Well, they weren't bothersome and frightening, but neither did they leave us alone the way that the ones along the Vatican Walls do. Then again, those ones probably know us all and know that we won't buy anything.

Apse with golden mosaic and awesome altar

Gate of a side chapel

     The next stop was this multi-level department store nearby. We had fun staring at ugly clothes and pretty Christmas decorations. It was nice to be in a Penney's-like place again.

     By the time we came out, it was getting dark, even though it wasn't that late. After getting lost and seeing the Four Fountains, we finally ended up at the Trevi Fountain, which was very crowded. I did indeed toss a coin into the fountain. I also killed a pair of shoes. Yay!

 

One of the Four Fountains. I took this picture a month ago on my church-hunt.

 

It was very pretty at night.

  

 

    Random note: it will be really nice to get home and be able to wear clothes that are more colors than black, green, and blue. I love those colors, but I'm getting kind of sick of wearing the same thing over and over again.

Stuff and the Venerable English College

     Yes, I know I have been really, REALLY bad, and it's dinnertime, and..... But I will say a few words. Firstly, it looks like I'll have to finish my chronicling of this semester even after I get back home, since there's so much I've not mentioned and it's my last two weeks.

     Now for a brief update: Today was my Italian final, yesterday we went to the Vatican Museums, Monday we went to Santa Sabina, Sunday we went to the Venerable English College (British Seminary in Rome; that's it's name), which I loved.

 

The Venerable English College

 

     It was really nice to be in Catholic Little Britain, with British accents. I didn't feel like a foreigner, though, I felt really welcomed and at home. I'm wondering if maybe the Brits feel towards us Americans the same way that I feel towards them here in Rome: "A Native speaker of my language! A person I can understand effortlessly, and who understands me! I don't know you at all, but I love you!!!" They were just so.... They seemed really happy to have us there. It was the warmest welcome we've received this semester.

     The chapel was a little strange, though very beautiful. We walk in, and we sit down. That's not so strange, except that our rows of pews were facing other pews filled with British high school boys. And our group consisted mostly of girls, since about half of the guys were on a retreat at a monastery in Norcia. I'm just glad that they were five years younger than me; it would have been very awkward and distracting otherwise. Instead it was mostly just funny. Why were the pews arranged like this? It's a choral thing, for praying back and forth. You see this when a group of people pray the Divine Office: about half the people pray one stanza of a psalm, the other half do the next, and then it just keeps going.

 

The tabernacle, viewed from the cleristory. Yes, I know, it's not in the middle. The chapel was
slightly redesigned in the 80's, and not everyone is happy with the current layout. Still, it's a chapel.

 

The ceiling! I couldn't stare enough at it.
 

Being upstairs was really cool.

 

     Although I enjoyed myself overall, I was never so conscious of my American accent as I was that day. British priests, British lector, British choir, British people in front of me. It was a terribly weird feeling, like I was offending everyone's ears (though I probably wasn't).

     The choir was the most beautiful I've heard in a long time, maybe the best I've ever heard. I wanted to cry.

     They had an awesome little garden which had benches that were partly made of columns from a temple to Saturn. (And it was even a rainy, grey day when we went. How British! :) ) The only thing I didn't like about the garden is that it facilitated a frightening moment: I managed to get a bee stuck in my hair. Not joking. I'm just glad Theresa managed to get it out quickly and without angering it.

 

Bench resting on capitals from columns of a temple to Saturn

 

Goldfish!

 

     So much history in that building. It's been a seminary for 500 years, some 40 martyrs studied there. The chapel where we had Mass is the same one that those martyrs prayed in, they have of their bones under the altar. And it was such a cute, cozy building!

 

Nothing warms your heart and makes you laugh quite the same way as does seeing a
 marble plaque with a Latin inscription containing a distinctively British name.

 

     The hurrican was apparently global news: during the Prayer of the Faithful, the US was specifically prayed for. That was another nice touch, hearing us mentioned in Mass.

 

I think this was the original entrance to the chapel.

 

     After the tour of the College, we went and got coffee at Sant' Eustachio's, which has been mentioned in the New York Times. It was very good coffee.